Germia - gaming world

Germia's corsets - tutorial and pattern

There are a lot of ways how to do a corset for your cosplay and I would love to share with you some of the ways and most importantly - how I do my corsets. So let's start!

Disclaimer - I am not a professional seamstress and everything I share with you I've learned just by making costumes. The corsets you make for your cosplay can tighten your waist a little and form your body in the costume. If you want to reach a body-changing results, you have to invest in professional-made corset with hard reinforcements and construction.


Why should I use a corset for my cosplay?

http://www.thelingerieaddict.com

I love to make corsets just because it accentuates woman's body perfectly! It fits every woman and even you don't look like a supermodel or you have some kilograms more- you can always form your body womanly and enhance your look perfectly!

Look at the woman on the picture - she is very sexy even she doesn't fit into today's harsh beauty standards!

And as a cosplayer, I dislike showing a lot of my body, but I still want to be sexy - Showing curves is one of the ways how to feel and how to be sexy without showing anything. And it really works! Don't you think?
It is also sometimes the only way to show your womanly me with all the helmets and capes and veils I wear :D















As you can see - I use corsets even in cosplays, where using a corset is not necessary - if you have to put armor on the belly - it can end for you in a bad way - making you look heavier and not so likeable. For example in a Pharah cosplay - the curves are really important in that cosplay, since her character in the games has great curvy, almost unreal body, and the only way how to achieve that, was a tight corset under the armor.

And a small tip: You can also reach curvy body just by making other parts of your armor bigger than your waist - like pauldron and hip armor!


How to make my own corset pattern?

There are several ways how to get your corset pattern - I can show you three of them:

1) Download a pattern from the internet

There are some sites, that will give you a perfect corset pattern for free (or for money - but I will show just sites with free patterns) or sites that will help you draw a pattern yourself.
But tbh I haven't tried using an existing pattern on my corsets, I always design my patterns.

SITE #1 - download will start when you click on the pictures.
SITE #2
SITE #3
SITE #4
SITE #5
SITE #6
SITE #7

2) Trace your body and draw  your own pattern

This is the most common way cosplayers do their patterns - just wrap yourself up in the food foil and tape your bodyshape all around the foil. Then draw the desired shape of the corset on it and cut yourself out from the tape shell. Cut all the pattern pieces, and trace them on paper - now you have your pattern!

3) Adjust an existing pattern to your own liking

The first corset I made was simply traced off a corset I bought. I bought a cheap corset on ebay (similar to this one for my Demon Hunter cosplay) and I traced just roughly the shape of all the corset pieces on a paper. I cut the paper out, connected it with tape and tried it on my body. Made a few adjustements and my first corset pattern was made! Then I traced it on brown leather, divided the front pieces into two, and sewn it together, made reinforcements and lacing and done.
Since that time I made it similarly - I already have a certain knowledge of how the pieces should look like and I just freehand draw them on a paper. I always use different pattern on my cosplay, because every cosplay needs different seams on the corset (compare Xena's corset and Demon Hunter's corset) Then I cut them out, tape them together and try if it fits on my body. I always make the middle part where the waist is smaller to be able to tighten it. I draw on the paper then how to adjust the pieces to fit better and that is how my patterns are made!





















Get my latest pattern for Xena and adjust it according to your body in THIS LINK!

How to make my own corset?


1) Choose the right fabric:

First thing you need to do is to choose the right material - keep in mind, that the material should not be flexible - it's purpouse is to hold it's shape, so don't use flexible materials! Also the material has to be firm, so don't use felt or other tearable materials.
I usually choose leather, but because some leather kinds are a little flexible, keep in mind to reinforce the material with other fabricfrom the inside. I made a small lit of materials I've used for different corsets:


Paladin: Black Leather with black cotton fabric inside












Pharah: Firm black cotton fabric with black unvowen fabric inside













Xena: Brown leather with black unvowen fabric inside













Ravenborn LeBlanc: Purple taffete fabric with black unvowen fabric inside













Auriel: Dark blue jeans fabric with metallic effect with black cotton fabric inside













Anna Valerious: Black leather with black unvowen fabric inside















Demon Hunter: Brown hard leather (my first corset - look how lame it looks)














As you can see I use a lot of unvowen fabric for my corsets - it is the cheapest fabric available, it doesn't fray, but you cannot use it by itself (because it is not firm enough - it is unvowen) - I use the kind of fabric used on the garden like THIS ONE and it can be bought in almost every hobby store like OBI or Baumax.

And yes, I am using a lot of leather - tbh it is my favourite material. I know it is expensive and animals die because of it, BUT I am using leather bought from second hand shops in form of leather coats or leather jackets for really cheap. Those pieces look mostly really awful and are not trendy anymore. I always buy them when they are on sale and if I wouldn't buy them, they would be otherwise thrown away later. It is the best source for corset leather or leather for smaller pieces of your cosplay and you can actually save money and spare some animal lifes too.
Just look at the jacket I've used for Xena's skirt:



2) Choose the reinforcement

There are several ways how to reinforce the corset. A corset without reinforcements cannot effectively shape and form your body. I use two types of reinforcements on my corsets (but of courset here is a lot of more different corset reinforcements from metal, bones and other stuff - if you use metal bones for your corset, it will make it more sturdy and forming)


The first type I use  is the sew-through plastic reinforcement, that I sew by hand into the seam of the corset. It hugs the seam from both sides then. It is actually a stripe of fabric tihh plastic tubing sewn inside of it. In order to hold it's shape it is necessary to melt the ends of these reinforcements by lighter. On the picture (Pharah's corset) there is every seem hugged with the reinforcement.















The second type is a cheaper plastic reinforcement. It is just the plastic tubing melted together without a fabric part and it is just inserted in the seaams of the corset (on the picture - corset for Auriel). By making a corset you have to make a double seam with a space inside, where you put this plastic reinforcement. This is much easier to do, so I use it for my latest corsets. It is also good to round the end of the reinforcement with a lighter.











3) Other stuff:

Every corset need some kind of a lacing and I use grommet lacing for most of my corsets. That means you make holes in both sides of the corset that are reinforced with a metal grommet and you put your lacing through those holes. I recommend using grommet kits with included piercing/forming tool and/or using a leather piercing shears. Keep in mind, that you need at least 8-10 holes on each side of the corset, less holes more space apart make the lacing uneffective and can bend the corset in unwanted places (Look at the picture of my Pharah's corset - it has only 5 holes on each side and it doesn't hold the shape as much as I would want to). Normally, a corset has a pieces of fabric to reinforce the lacing, but I make it followingly: I make the last corset part a lot wider than I need, and I fold the end inside of the corset, so the lacing has a double layer of fabric to hold onto (That is why my Xena corset pattern appears so wide on the end).
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Xena's chakram making tips + free patterns

I decided to make my next childhood dream come true and become Xena. So I started drawing patterns for her cosplay and during my research, I've learned a lot of important tips regarding chakram, it's proportions, use and look.








Those tips are following:

1) Sides are not the same!


Everyone knows how chakram looks like - or do they? Did you know, that chakram looks different from each side? One side has a pointy gold pattern and the other has a rectangle gold pattern.


2) Decorate your chakram in style!

Also - the shiny round things on the chakram are paua shell round cabochons in green and blue, so if you want to be as accurate as possible, buy paua shell!
You can find it HERE on ebay ;)


3) Splitting chakram?

If you want to be more original, there is another version of her Chakram in the series - it's called Splitting Chakram and it's the most badass thing imaginable - it looks like Ying Yang sign and it could be disassembled in two parts and use as dual wielded hand weapon. BADASS!
Btw. pattern included!



4) Don't make the pattern wrong! 

Be careful about the rectangular pattern on the Chakram, because even her original merchandise had it wrong! It should NOT look like the chakram on the pic on the right!




5) Mind the size!


Look at the picture - chakram is huuuge! It is 25 cm wide, so don't make it smaller (or bigger ;))





6) Now you can just download the patterns:

DEFAULT CHAKRAM SIDE 1
DEFAULT CHAKRAM SIDE 2
SPLITTING CHAKRAM

And here you can find a tutorial how to print pictures on normal a4 page to align nicely to each other https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9r1-uz1MuhU





Special thanks to: http://xenaproptreasures.blogspot.cz/2014/01/comparisons-original-chakram-i-of-iv.html





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How to make your own cosplay patterns using 3D modelling + free Starcraft pauldron pattern

When I announced Lt. Morales as my next cosplay, I didn't imagine how hard it would be to pull of patterns, that actually don't alling to my body. Lt. Morales is huge, like really huge - and her armor pieces are also really huge. We cosplayers are all used to making patterns on our own body or on a human-like figourine and we are used to several different techniques:

1) Taping your body to trace your curves and make the patterns simpler

2) Make patterns directly on your body/figourine and adjust them in the process of making.


I'm using both of the techniques in my builds, but I've always made patterns on a solid body mass, not just in the air to make armor that is so bulky as hers and that doesn't correspond to my body at all... So I was really struggling to make this one.


Good thing to do before starting your cosplay, is to make research and I always make research for different pictures, referrence materials or cosplayers, that made this cosplay before me. And I've found one, that made Lt. Morales too with using the 3D modelling software. And as I've used 3D modelling before I thought it could me fun to learn a new patterning technique and I can spare some time and her blog was a big help, but...

...I actually didn't spare a lot of time - when you're making something for the first time (even you have some idea how), you have to overcome a lot of different obstacles and problems you didn't expect, but I can SPARE YOUR TIME by telling you exactly how to do it!




I struggled 3 days with different programs and their versions, but thanks to the modding community, I was able to transfer the 3Dmodel of Morales through 3 different programs into a workable object and work on her in Meshmixer, disassemble her armor into pieces and make a 2D pattern out of it in Pepakuradesigner and mod the file into workable foampattern pieces, but step- by-step:

1) What you have to do first is to download free program called CasView HERE. This program allows you to download Blizzard model files into your computer. Open it in your computer, press Browse, find your installed game (in my case: Heroes of the Storm in C:, Program Files) and import data folder into the program. I found my Morales in mods/heroes.stormmod/base.stormassets/Assets/Units/Heroes/Storm_Hero_Medic_base and there you have your .m3 file that you need.

2) Then it starts to be kinda harder (sorry). The blog of the cosplayer I've read is using just a modding tweak for Blender to get this done, but it didn't work for me at all and it's not described as elaborately as you can possibly need as a beginner - but you can try it HERE.
But don't worry - I've figured out a way how to make it possible, even it is not without a struggle - You have to download/buy a paid 3D modelling software called Autodesk 3DS Max - I've used an older version of this software and I really recommend using version 12 or 13 more than going for a newer version. You can download the older version HERE and try it for 30 days for free. If you want to own the program forever, you have to buy a serial and product key.
I've achieved to transfer the file because of THIS tutorial about transferring .m3 files into workable pieces.
Don't be scared of how 3DS Max looks like, I don't understand it much either, but you don't have to work in this hard-to-understand program - this is just to make our model workable in Blender.Then you have to download Talyor Mouse's M3 Import script, that makes *.m3 files workable in 3DS Max. You can download it HERE.


So when you have your Autodesk 3DS Max 12 installed, you have to open 3DS Max, click on MAXscript on the main panel and click Runscript In the new window, you'll see the script that you can run. Open it. Or you can just drag and drop the M3 addon the scripts folder in the folder where the program is installed. Then go to the right side of the screen, where the tools are diplayed, click on a small hammer icon (Utilities), choose MAXscript, choose M3 Import (v3.2) and select the .m3 file you want to import. Select your file and then check all the blank windows (bones, materials) to import all the file features into 3DS MAx.Then the model will appear in the program. Now you have to export the file as *.obj file by choosing the Autodesk logo in the upper left corner, click export, choose *.stl file, give it a name and click save.


3) Then you have to download a program called Autodesk Meshmixer - it is a free and really easy-to-use program for 3D printing. - download it HERE. It is a free software, where you can really easily work with the model and it is really easy to learn. Tbh there is nothing to learn, you need just the basics, that you can figure out yourself, try it, or watch my video below.


If you import your .stl file into Blender, your model will appear as a big pill or a ball. Don't be scared! It's perfectly normal - it's a hitbox texture. You have to select (use select tool) the textures you don't want to include in your build and delete them (click delete button on your keyboard).
When you are perfectly happy with your build and only model without any hitbox textures is left, click Edit tool, click Generate face groups and the amount you choose will then make the same armor pieces into one color and will group them - so if you click twice on it, it will be selected as a whole. Then save your project. Now save your project once again with the name of the part of the model you want to make patterns of. For example pauldron. Now select all the textures that are not pauldron and delete them till only the pauldron is left. Then extract the piece in *.stl formate.


4) Next step is to buy and download program called Pepakura Designer 4. You can download it HERE. It is a program for making paper cutouts, so your perfectly smooth in-game model will be kinda pointy - you have to count with it and adjust it during the actuall cutting with the scissors later when your patterns are printed.



To unfold your model into 2D pattern, you have to click UNFOLD button on the top. Now the pattern looks really weird. It is adjusted automatically in Pepakura program to be the easiest to make from paper - so there are a lot of unlogically connected pieces, it has paper flaps, we don't need...
You have to then click on 2D menu, unselect Show flaps. Then click on underlined pencil button (Line Color) and lower the amount of edges (to aproximatelly 160 degrees - but it depends on the build youre making). The the whole work is up to you - you have to connect and disconnect pieces and think about how it will be best for your foam build. I'm actually making those last two steps in the video below!







You can also name your parts so it is easier for you to orient in the different pieces. Also, think about the SCALE of your armor to fit your body - measure twice before printing out! You can scale it in 2d menu - change scale and I measured it to be the right size according to normal size of a A4 paper. Next thing you have to think of is the position of your pieces on the paper - always think about how it will be the easiest to cut, how it will be the easiest to glue together and how it will be the most eco-friendly - don't use unnecessary amounts of paper.


It is a really time-consuming technique, but I still think it will pay out in terms of how good it looks and in terms of how much nerves I spare with making up and remaking my own patterns, that could be really exhausting.


and as a reward I've thought this pauldron is one of the most universal parts of the cosplay, that could be reused for any other bulky or Starcraft 2 project - so here is a PEPAKURA FILE TO DOWNLOAD of my pauldron and FREE PDF PATTERN TO DOWNLOAD. Please, watch me working on my pauldron first before using the pattern, because cutting your foam in the right angle is the key feature of making good armor using pattern like this. Also - on the video, there is shown the outcome of the pauldron and it is really big! Scale it down if you think it is too big for you!

I've made this tutorial with the support of my PATREON followers. They allowed me to find time to make this elaborate tutorial and free to download patterns for you and with support of my TWITCH subscribers I can also share some videos of me working in those programs so it is much easiers for you to learn how to work with those :) Please, consider supporting me too, so I can make more tutorials and free patterns for you! <3

Also, visit my facebook page for progress pics and cosplay pictures!

Best of luck on your project!

Germia

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Odin from Smite - cosplay by Germia

Photo by Karolina Ryvolova photography

1) Why I chose to make this costume:


I admire nordic mythology, as I said already in my article about my Haven Paladin cosplay from MMH7. And during the process of making my Paladin cosplay, my dad said to me, that he wants a matching cosplay to mine, some epic badass armor, that will suit him. I immediately thought about Odin and Smite was the first thing, that came to my mind. Odin from Smite is as big as my dad, he is badass, he has big armor and he inspires awe.
Eventually I made this costume really fast, because he wanted to wear it for the wedding anniversary of him and my mom. It's made to fit him, but in fact it could be worn by any big guy or even me (I'm pretty tall).

ORIGINAL CHARACTER:



















2) How I made this costume:


1) Helmet

I traced the helmet on the cast of my head, that was slightly adjusted to be bigger as the head of my dad. I covered it in food foil and taped the food foil with adhesive tape. Then I drew the lines of the patterns on the tape form. I cut the shapes, transfered them onto craftfoam (moosgummi) and covered it in worbla to hold the shape.
Then I made the horns out of foam taped in adhesive tape, glued them to the helmet and covered it in papermache out of newspapers and woodglue. Then I primed it with latex cement and made the details out of EVA foam, used the fussing glass cabochons for decoration in front and back and painted it all black. Then I used my sponge-painting technique for painting the golden parts and try to make shades on the horns just with a normal brush and acrylic colors. The shading with acrylics could be much better when using anti-drying fluid. Then I used shiny acrylic structure gel to make the surface of the horns shinier.


2) Beard

I have to say, that buying a long grey beard isn't an easy thing to do. I have to admit, even on e-bay are these wizard beards and wizard wigs prices pretty damn high! :D So I've done something, that was against all my rules and advices I've written about and I bought a wizard wig and beard, with photoshopped picture and if you look closely, the wig is crepped to add volume to it. So I've risked a lot. A shiny beard and badly fitting wig came, the overall volume of the beard was bad. So I've decided to cut the wig in pieces and use it for adding volume to the beard. And here's the result - thick beard, that I could braid in three thick braids and I'm really satisfied with it. It's still shiny, but I like it - Odin is a God, so it kinda fits. But if you want to get rid of shine from your wig, you can try to bath it in fabric softener mixed with water (1:2) (and talc powder) for a few days. It cost around 250 Kč = 9 Euro. Oh and the bottom parts of the braids are then decorated with foam pieces. And to hold them on their place, I glued hair clips inside of them :)
 







3) Eye-patch

The eye-pathc was one of the simplest parts of the costume. I just traced the shape of the eye onto a paper and made bulky shaped pattern (because the person wearing it has it's own eye in there and when you make a space for the eye inside, it will be much more comfortable for him to move the eye.) The I traced the pattern onto a foam, cut it with exacto knife and glued it together. Then I cut stripes from moosgummi and made an eye shape on the patch. I painted it whole black and used my spinge-tapping technique to make it gold. Then I glued small rubber bands from both sides to hold on the head.




4) Boots

As I looked on the boots of Odin, it reminded me of snowboots. Fortunately, my father owns snowboots with camouflage, that made a fitting base for Odin's boots. I traced the shapes on paper and transfered them on the foam. From the backside, there are two elastic bands to allow small movements for the foam cover. A small vecro could be fastened to the boot lace from the bottom side of the foam.  I decorated the foam with moosgummi and painted it with acrylics. I sewn two fluffy cylinder shapes from old hairy coat, that could be opened and closed with velcros on the back side. The cylinders are then glued to the foam on the bottom, and pinned to the boot on the top.

5) Shoulder armor, collar

Shoulder armor are just rectangle pieces of 1cm foam with moosgummi border decorations and soldered ornaments, that are curved around the shoulder and connected with velcros on top to the collar and around the armpit.
Collar was made also out of EVA foam, it was decorated with moosgummi and soldering too and wrapped around the neck - it is hold on it's place by the other parts like shoulder armor and cape parts and it can be connected with velcros in the front (the connection is covered with beard).
To the collar I glued the back cape and the fur piece, that was really easy to make, since I took a collar from fur coat, tweaked it a little and glued it to the foam collar and that's it!

As you can see on the picture, the soldered pattern is not even and I thought it would be much more realistic when it is not even, so I didn't tried to make the pattern superperfect ;)


6) Skirt 

 The skirt is actually made from three layers - there is a long brown skirt with golden details, shorter two-layered skirt right under the belt and blue part right in the middle of it all.
The biggest skirt I made from old leather coat - So it is just the bottom part of the coat, that I cut and sewn into it a space for a lace, that is laced in thw fron of the body and the whole skirt is mainly on the back of the body. The I took golden lurex ribbons and glued them onto the leather since the leather was too strong to sew into. The skirt is on the 2 pictures in left corner. And because the skirt was really heavy, it holds in it's place not only becaus of the lace, but also because of the braces (3rd pic).
Second skirt looked leathery like the first one, but I hadn't any more good quality leather, so I decided to make this part  from moosgummi. And how to make moosgummi look like leather? Look at the two pics in the bottom middle part of the collage - You just take dark moosgummi, put a wrinkled aluminium foil onto it and you iron the aluminium on the moosgummi. And it makes in the moosgummi perfet leather pattern for you to use. I've just put brown acrylic paint onto it and tried to mix different shades to match the real leather used fro the other skirt. Then I covered it in shiny acrylic medium gel to make the surface shiny and match again the other skirt. The front skirt needed then much more love because of the amount of decorations I had to put on it - there are a lot of 2mm and 0,5 foam decorations painted with golden acrylic paint.
Then I had to make the third skirt part and it was a blue fabric skirt - I chose the same dark blue velvet fabric, sewn it into desired shape, decorated it with differen golden and silver ribbons that match the ingame model and glued it to the second skirt with hot glue gun. As you can see, I struggled to find the right way how to decorate it - fabric color really didn't look good on velvet, so the ribbons were much better way how to decorate it ;)



7) Cape

The cape was made similarly as the third skirt part - it is just three different rectangle parts made out of dark blue velvet fabric and decorated with ribbons. Two parts are attached to the shoulder pad and arms go through them - to be honest - it looks great, it is the same like on the game model and it covers the bracers that hold the leather skirt!
The back part is the biggest rectangle piece, that i glued under the collar.

Look at the picture to se how all the parts go together:




8) Belt

Belt is made entirely from 0,5 cm foam, there are on the inner parts decorations from 2mm craftfoam/moosgummi and 0,5 cm foam borders. The ends are underglued with unvowen black fabric and I put two grommets on each end to lace the belt in desired length - I counted with changing body shape of my father, so I tried to make everything either laced or velcro connected.
The middle part is made mainly from 1cm thick EVA foam, but I tried to make the blue parts inside look like a glass, so I filled it with glass colors and it looked like a vitrage!







9) Gloves

Gloves are just long leather working gloves that I painted with brown acrylic color, cut off the fingers, because Odin's gloves are fingerless, decorated them with 2mm craftfoam (moosgummi) on the fist and with 1cm EVA foam stripe with a filling of softer foam, that made the border. And as wioth other parts, I made the nordic pattern in the border with soldering iron.













10) Gambeson

Gambeson is a part of a (not-only) medieval soldier/knight, that was worn under and armor. It was a thick, mostly quilted torzo cover, sometimes used even without an armor. I wasn't very succesfull finding the right brown quilted material with the right rhombus shape on it. And then I found a huge jacket in a second hand shop with the perfect lining inside. So I've actually used lining for the gambeson :D
I've sewn the borders, I've made a holes to be worn as a corset and I've decorated the whole thing with plastic rivets in silver finish. So the whole thing is actually worn backwards, I just adapted it to be comfortable, made borders and it is closed with corset lacing. I added some velcros, that hold other armor parts on the place.






11) Knee pads


The base of the knee pads is made from 1cm thick foam, that is glued onto an unvowen fabric. On the ends of the fabric, there is a velcro with elastic band that holds the knee pad on it's place and the elastc bands allows for free movement.
I decorated then the piece with 2mm moosgummi and 0,5 cm foam for the borders and painted it with acrylic colors.
 

12) Spear



 The spear was made out of looooong wooden pole used for making brooms. It is heavily decorated with different sizes of foam - mainly 2mm thick moosgummi with soldered and paintbrushed details, and 0,5mm foam for upper and bottom parts. I've also glued a soft foam on the places, where Odin holds the spear in glued a bast cord around the foam and painted it with different shades of brown. It really feels good int he hand!
One of the hardest parts was dividing the spear into two different pieces, since the spear itself measures around 2,5-3 meters. I cut the pole in two pieces (mind the place of cutting since it has to be hidden somehow) and I drilled a bigger hole into the bottom part in order to put inside a long metal nut (female srew) and glued it into it with two parts epoxy glue. The same I did on the other part. I just glue a male screw into it - keep in mind that your male screw should be headless so you don't have to make an unnecessary bigger hole. Next thing to keep in mind - you have to tryto screw the pieces together before gluing and be sure that it works well. Also - the angle of the drilled holes should be straight - if you drill the holes a little off, your spear can end up crooked - I made the holes myself and I managed to pull it off, but if you are not sure if you can make it yourself, ask (for example in the shop where you bought the pole) if some expert with the right tools can make it for you. Then I wrapped worbla around the connection to make it more sturdy and solid and decorated it with foam.
But this is not all - I had to make a lot of decorations - I made them out of 0,5 EVA foam and glued them to the spear on several places. I thought about making them from worbla, but with good quality dense foam you can make it nice and sturdy without using worbla.
The top part is made out of  XPS polystyrene, that was shaped with exacto knife and dremmel, smoothened with acrylic cement, decorated with blue glass color, small foam pieces and hand made glass cabochons and painted with acrylic colors and paintbrush. Then I mounted the top part on the pole and glued it into place with hot glue.
The bottom part had to be really hard and sturdy and withstand a lot of stress, since I assumed my father would like to lean on the spear sometimes or use it sometimes as a walking stick. So I made it from 1cm foam and covered it all in worbla thermoplastic.



13) Back decorations

Some of you may notice, that on the ingame model, Odin has some kind of big armor parts on his back. In order to simplify wearing the costume for my dad, I decided not to make this part of the costume, since my father is not used to wear complicated costumes and it is really exhausting for him to wear the costume even without the big backpack structure.


And if you see someone being this happy about wearing the costume, you know you did your job right:







Also, look at other pics I made together with talented Milos Mlady:

























And if you like my work ans tutorials, please follow me on my FACEBOOK PAGE for my new work, please, or you can SUPPORT my work and creation of articles like this HERE ON MY PATREON PAGE

Yours


Germia


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